Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
